After a breakfast of poached eggs and avocado on toast in one of the mall’s cafes, I dropped into the Queensland Tourist Information centre. I had heard that there was a Heritage History Walking Tour however, apparently I had to book it in advance as they didn’t accept drop ins. Part of me was thinking I could just ask nicely if I go to the point where the tours depart from. After all, I’m sure they wouldn’t knock back $25.
So off I went to City Hall where the tour would have started at 10. However, wandering about and taking footage for my video waiting for 10am to come around, I started to think that I was wasting time. I could easily organise my own historical tour based on my OWN interests – and that was maritime!
So there and then I decided to walk along the Brisbane river (there’s a walkway through the marshes) and head towards the Maritime Museum. While walking there, I spied the purple Beam e-scooters but didn’t work up the courage to use them.
Walking it was! The walk wasn’t bad except for the constant banging, clanging and drilling noise. Along the boardwalk you can read about the indigenous tribes that lived in the area, the vegetation, animals and bird life names.
There’s A LOT of construction going on in this city. If they’re not fixing the Brisbane Metro, they’re fixing the damage done by the recent floods. It would have been nice to take a ferry but there’s service interruptions because of the construction work along the river.
I spent a good few hours at the Maritime Museum. The museum is not just about the military but it’s about immigration, tug boats, divers and history of ships that came out here (or had sunk) off the coast of Queensland. I particularly enjoyed reading about women at sea and their experiences.
HMAS Diamintina, a River class frigate is dry docked there.
She’s the last surviving frigate of her kind in the world and I’m glad they didn’t make her into razor blades. Back in the day, she was a submarine chaser and on the quarterdeck there’s a small plaque to say that’s it was on her back in 15 August 1945, the Japanese had signed the papers there handing over Nauru to Allies putting an end to the long war.
After the war, she saw service as a hydrographic ship. I love going through ships like this – their smell distinctive. You could just picture the men onboard going avoir their daily work amongst ships pipes and general shipboard life.
The museum is run by volunteers and one of them told me that they had only “just” felt Diamantina move when the river flooded. Maybe for a little time, the ship had found itself floating and the volunteers could dream!
Afterwards, I headed across to Southbank. It was about lunchtime and I was thinking to have a pub meal at the Ship Inn, a heritage listed inn built in 1866. The same volunteer told me that there are pictures of boats tied to the verandahs of this hotel during the 1874 floods which were the highest ever. However, it looked like the place was pumping! It was busy! People outside enjoying their beers and meals and really, I couldn’t face any more people today so I pushed on. (One of the things I’m trying to get used to is the amount of people everywhere. I haven’t seen these crowds for a long time and it messes with my head. Although I’ve been out in Melbourne, I’ve yet to see crowds like this anywhere in our city – I’m sure there are but maybe it’s because I haven’t been going to big events? Regardless, I still feel a bit of “tension” regarding covid).
Walking through Southbank and the man made pools and beach there was lovely. I went to Subway to buy a salad and then afterwards bought myself some frozen yoghurt sitting there contemplating what to do next. It was about 1:30 pm and in all honesty, I was just taking it easy. The mere idea that this is my first interstate visit in three years – a mini holiday for me – meant that I wasn’t going to “go hard”. I didn’t want to be beholden to any structure, plans or meetups. I just wanted to go with the flow.
The answer came immediately as I was eating my frozen yoghurt. I got online and a colleague (whom I had never met or spoken to) had seen my Yammer post about being ex-Navy and he said that there was a Submariners Heritage Walk at New Farm towards Tenerife.
I checked the TransLink app (I use public transport when I visit places) and it turned out I could take a bus and within 30 minutes be there BUT I had run out of battery on my iPhone. I needed to charge up so I headed back to the Southbank Tourist Centre to politely ask if I could charge my phone.
I mentioned to the guide that I wanted to see the Submarine Heritage Trail but he had never heard of it! I asked if I could charge my phone and he agreed luckily. Meanwhile I waited outside and finished my frozen yoghurt and people watched.
One of the things that is annoying so far is that it must rain at times I never see. It must start and then stop immediately and I could be inside. As a result, I come out of things and the air feels damp, humid and my feet wet underfoot. As a result, everything is damp and wet. I’ve yet to actually sit down on any bench to rest my weary legs! I’m always standing or risk a wet arse. What’s up with that?
After some time, I headed back into the Tourist Centre and he had done some research about the trail. He thanked me for letting them know about it! He told me I could catch Bus 60 from the Culture Centre Interchange. So off I went, the bus arrived promptly in a couple of minutes and I asked the driver to stop at the Submariners Walk.
He shrugged his shoulders. He had not heard of it either!
“It’s going to be near water and near a boardwalk? Any idea?” I ask.
“Ah yes, there’s the Ténériffe ferry! Maybe it’s near there!” He says.
“That sounds like it, thank you!”
In the bus I pondered how HUGE this city is. In some parts it reminds me of Melbourne, in the New Farm area, it reminded me a little of London along the Thames. Then, other times, I get flashbacks to Hawaii. However what gives it its distinct feel is the humid weather.
I finally found the Submariners Heritage Walk. It’s a strip of about 300m where there’s different signage and interesting facts about the 70 odd submarines that were there and operating during WW2. There’s a submariners memorial too. The site used to be the site of HMAS Moreton North, a Navy base that had closed down. It was before my time so everything I learned there was all new for me today.
About 3pm, I decided to turn back and catch the bus back to the hotel. By this time, I was utterly exhausted having walked most of the day today. All benches were damp too (they looked like little submarines) so I needed my rest. Part of me could have gone a cold beer and I thought the little brick house (heritage listed old store) near the flag poles was a place where I could get one but it was a cafe that sold healthy foods. I pressed on towards the bus stop for a bus to take me back to the city.
I thought my asthma would play up here but I’ve not had to use my preventer or inhaler at all luckily. Also I’m back to wearing a mask everywhere. I carried my water bottle with me and filled up every time I passed a fountain. For dinner, I just had my 2-minute noodles and yoghurt. I just couldn’t face going out again to try and find somewhere to eat.
Truth be told it’s because the walk back to the hotel is uphill. There are so many hilly spots here it’s quite tiring!
Overall it was a wonderful educational and informative day. I didn’t have my Fitbit so I have no idea how many steps I did but it could have been well over 30 000.
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